Sick of getting greasy gloves and hands while fumbling with your rear wheel ? Then this tip is for you.
Learn how to remove and replace your wheel in seconds with these simple steps. No Grease, no fuss. And really handy beginner mountain biking tip to know when your puncture repair is followed by a trail-side sandwich.
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How to remove the rear wheel of a mountain bike in 4 simple steps
Step 1. Shift to the smallest gear on your rear cluster with the chain riding on the middle front ring. There are two main advantages to changing to the smallest gear:
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A. The most outside derailleur position allows the maximum amount of clearance for your wheel to come out
B. Smallest off, smallest on. Always shifting to the smallest gear makes it easier to remember that it will be the smallest gear your chain needs to find when you put the wheel back on.
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Step 2. Release the quick release lever (and your rear V-brake cable if no disc brakes fitted) then…
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Step 3. Lift the back of the bike with one hand and turn the derailleur body with the other hand.
Turn / pivot the derailleur so that it swings to the back of the bike.
If your wheel doesn’t fall out of the drop-outs, hit the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand then turn the derailleur.(v
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When you’ve swung the derailleur far enough the wheel will drop down onto the chain…
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Step 4. Tilt your wheel and free it from the chain…
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You’re done!
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Now, to put it back on…
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How to install a rear wheel on a mountain bike in 5 easy steps
1. Hook the chain with the cluster side of the quick release skewer.
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2. Locate the chain back onto the smallest gear on the cluster as you lower the bike.
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3. Push the derailleur cage / arm down and around using your thumb. As you’re pushing, lower the bike gently and allow the derailleur to swing into position under the cluster. Your axle should be close to slipping into the drop-outs.
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4. Locate the axle into the drop-outs of each chain stay. Guide the rotor gently in between the brake pads. Easy does it…
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5. Lean and lock. Lean on your seat to push the drop-outs firmly onto both ends of the axle as you lock the quick release. (re-connect your V-brake cable if no disc brakes fitted)
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Done!
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Shift back to an easier gear, then go tell your friends how easy this tip makes removing and installing a rear wheel!
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And here’s the VIDEO version…
Fuzz,
Turning a hydraulic braked bike up-side down is a bit of a no-no. Sure it might be ok to flip it when your bike is brand new, but it's a good idea to get into the habit of always keeping it right way up.
Why? Because over time your hydraulic brake system can develop small leaks, particularly in muddy environments, and these leaks can suck air into your braking system. Turning your bike upside down lets this trapped air make it's way to sit behind the pistons. (remember air compresses, hydraulic oil doesn't) If air gets behind the pistons you could find you'll have little or no brakes for the first squeeze or two of the levers after righting your bike. And if the trail heads downhill straight away, you could be in for a fright.
That's happened to me before. Not good.
Cheers.
hey chris what about doing it with your bike in an upside down position? Can you demonstrate that? And maybe get the camera closer to the area of operation? Thanks buddy