This mountain bike maintenance guide will teach you how to fix a broken or twisted bike chain with a SRAM Powerlink quickly and properly. And if you haven’t heard of a SRAM Powerlink, don’t worry, it’s all explained below. By the end of this guide you’ll know what the two dollar Powerlink device is, and you’ll also know exactly how to use it.
The SRAM Powerlink is a very special device. It costs next to nothing, is simple to install and could seriously save your day should you encounter chain problems out in the bush.
The Powerlink itself takes the place of one whole section of outer plate chain link and its two pins. Once the chain is prepared the Powerlink can be fitted by hand making it the quickest and simplest way how to repair a broken chain on a bike.
How to use this guide: The first series of steps on this page show you how to fix a bike chain without the use of a chain hook. The second series of steps further down show you how to fix a bike chain with the use of a chain hook.
If you don’t know what a chain hook is that’s one in the picture on the left beside the chain breaker tool.
These days most of the best brand chain breaker tools and mountain bike multi-tools with a chain tool built into them come standard with a chain hook. They’re a little wire device that makes repairing a broken chain that bit quicker and easier whether you do it with or without a Powerlink.
For now though, to learn how to fix a bike chain if you don’t have a chain hook, just start below…
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Photos coming soon!!
How to fix a broken or twisted bike chain – without a Chain Hook
(click here if you do have a chain hook)
What you’ll need to complete the following steps: a SRAM Powerlink, a bicycle chain breaker tool, and some chain lube and an old cloth if you have one handy.
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Step 1 – Reduce the tension and position the chain
(stand your bike up against a tree)
- shift to the smallest chain ring at the front and the smallest gear at the back. With the chain loose and more chain length available, operating the chain tool is far easier. Less chain tension also means the spring in the rear derailleur won’t whip the chain out of your hands once the chain is split split.
- move the damaged section to bottom under the chain stay, about half way between your rear derailleur and chainrings. This puts the chain in a good spot for hand and tool access.
If your chain is too damaged to be pedaled into place try lifting the chain by hand off the cogs and on to the smaller ones, operating the shifters as you do so, but without cranking the pedals. If your chain is wrapped around a derailleur or something or twisted so badly that you can’t move it, just get it in the best position to fit the chain tool.
If you’ve already removed your chain from the bike, still change to the smallest cog and ring to make it easier when re-installing the chain, then proceed to step 3.
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Step 2 – Hold the rear derailleur arm forward to loosen the chain fully
Use a mate’s helping hand or a stick or your seatpost if you’re alone, to hold the derailleur arm forward. This will remove all tension from the chain. What? Use a seatpost you say? Yep! Done carefully, it won’t damage the spokes and it will save you quite a bit of hassle. Do your best to keep the chain from sitting in the dirt.
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Step 3 – Locate the first chain pin to be removed
(Remember – one SRAM Powerlink takes the place of one whole section of outer plate chain link and two pins)
Looking along the chain to the left of the damaged section, locate the first undamaged inner chain link. Each inner chain link section has two pins, a left and a right pin, that goes through each end and secures the inner link between outer link plates.
Once you’ve decided which is the nearest undamaged inner link, locate the right side pin through that inner link. That’s the first pin you need to remove.
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Step 4 – Push the first pin out
Position your chain tool onto the chain from underneath, lining up the chain tool plunging pin onto the head of the pin you want to remove.
Ensure that the chain fits snugly into the tool between the guide teeth.
Wind the chain tool handle or allen key to push the pin out. Hold the chain steady on the tool with your other thumb if you need to.
Once you’re done wind the chain tool back out. Separate the chain and keep the good end out of the dirt.
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Step 5 – Locate the second pin to be removed
Hold the damaged section in your hand. Look along the chain to the right of that damaged section and locate the first undamaged inner chain link. Locate the left side pin through that inner link. That’s the second pin you need to remove.
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Step 6 – Remove the second pin
Repeat step 4 to remove the second pin. Keep the damaged section of chain in your Camelbak for the day you need to fit a new chain.
Why? Because you’ll need it to count how many links your original chain started so that your new chain starts at the right length.
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Step 7 – Install the SRAM Powerlink
Now you have a split chain that ends with inner links at both ends. Each of those inner links should have a hole where a pin once was. If you have an old cloth handy give your chain a clean, especially at the ends you’re about to connect.
Now the easy bit! It’s what makes the SRAM Powerlink so special.
- Insert the pin of one half of the SRAM Powerlink into the pin hole on the left end of your chain.
- Next, insert the pin of the second half of Powerlink into the pin hole on the other end of the chain.
- Join the SRAM Powerlink halves together. Fit the Powerlink halves together by slotting the exposed Powerlink pins into each other’s link plate hole. Once you’ve done that, the easiest way to slide the Powerlink to the secured position is to squeeze it together between your thumb and fore-finger and slide the plates in opposite directions with your fingers.
You’re not done yet…
Clean and lubricate your chain at your next opportunity. Also, never underestimate the importance of learning how to shift gears on a bike correctly as well as looking after your chain with the right mountain bike chain maintenance tips. A few minutes learning what to do will greatly reduce the risk of chain problems happening in the first place. And remember…
Cheap is not nasty
On this rare occasion cheap is not nasty. The SRAM Powerlinks are cheap and they’re brilliant. A lifesaver. What’s nasty is walking your bike home 20 miles because you didn’t spend a few dollars on a Powerlink!
Buy at least two and keep them in your Camelbak. And if you haven’t already, grab a quality brand chain tool with a chain hook and some chain oil. You’ll be thanking your lucky stars when you need them and they’re there.
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Other ways to use a SRAM Powerlink
Powerlinks make removing your chain to wash it or removing your chain for bike transport dead easy.
Simply undo or remove the Powerlink by squeezing it between your thumb and forefinger, and sliding the two halves in opposite directions while squeezed (bringing the two Powerlink pins closer together). You can find the short video of How to remove a SRAM Powerlink here. Check it out. It shows you how to do it without tools in seconds.
SRAM Powerlinks usually last a long time, but if you notice it has started becoming worn, undoes by itself, or has visible damage, then replace it with a new Powerlink.
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How to fix a broken or twisted bike chain – WITH a Chain Hook
What you’ll need:
- SRAM powerlink
- quality chain breaker tool and chain hook
- chain lube and an old cloth if you have one handy
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A nifty piece of gear
A chain hook is simply a piece of wire curled at both ends to form hooks. What makes if nifty is it’s ability to hold the chain as one continuous loop, preventing the rear derailleur’s spring action from whipping the chain out of your hands once you have split the chain with your chain tool. It also keeps the chain in position on the gears and keeps loose chain ends out of the dirt during repair.
A great little invention that makes chain repair even simpler.
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Step 1 – Position the chain
(stand your bike up against a tree)
- shift to the largest chain ring at the front and the smallest gear at the back. This will bring your chain away from the rear tyre allowing more working room your hands and the chain tool
- move the damaged section to bottom under the chain stay, about half way between your rear derailleur and chainrings
If your chain is too damaged to be pedaled into place try lifting the chain by hand off the cogs and on to the smaller ones, operating the shifters as you do so, but without cranking the pedals. If your chain is wrapped around a derailleur or something or twisted so badly that you can’t move it, just get it in the best position to fit the chain hook and tool.
If you’ve already removed your chain from the bike, put it back on and still perform step 1.
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Step 2 – Locate the first chain pin to be removed
(Remember – one SRAM Powerlink takes the place of one whole section of outer plate chain link and pins)
Looking along the chain to the left of the damaged section, locate the first undamaged inner chain link. Each inner chain link section has two pins, a left and a right pin, that goes through each end and secures the inner link between outer link plates.
Once you’ve decided which is the nearest undamaged inner link, locate the right side pin through that inner link. That’s the first pin you need to remove.
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Step 3 – Fit the chain hook
Fit the chain hook onto the top of the chain around inner links. Ensure the first and second pins you want to remove are within that chain section which is held by the chain hook. If the pins to be removed are a lot of links apart, you’ll simply be left with a longer loop of slack chain between the hook. That’s fine.
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Step 4 – Push the first pin out
Position your chain tool onto the chain from underneath, lining up the chain tool plunging pin onto the head of the pin you want to remove.
Ensure that the chain fits snugly into the tool between the guide teeth.
Wind the chain tool handle or allen key to push the pin out.
Once you’re done wind the chain tool back out.
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Step 5 – Locate the second pin to be removed
With the chain hook still holding the chain in a loop look along the chain to the right of the damaged section and locate the first undamaged inner chain link. Locate the left side pin through that inner link. That’s the second pin you need to remove. Just double check the hook will still hold the chain once that second pin is removed.
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Step 6 – Remove the second pin
Repeat step 4 to remove the second pin. Keep the damaged section of chain in your Camelbak for the day you need to fit a new chain.
Why? Because you’ll need it to count how many links your original chain started so that your new chain starts with the correct number of links.
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Step 7 – Install the SRAM Powerlink
Now you have a split chain, still held in a loop by the chain hook, with inner links at both ends of the chain. Each of those inner links should have a hole where a pin once was. If you have an old cloth handy give your chain a clean, especially at the ends you’re about to connect.
Now the easy bit! It’s what makes the SRAM Powerlink so special.
- Insert the pin of one half of the SRAM Powerlink into the pin hole on the left end of your chain.
- Next, insert the pin of the second half of Powerlink into the pin hole on the other end of the chain.
- Join the SRAM Powerlink halves together. (As you do the chain hook will probably fall to the ground) Fit the Powerlink halves together by slotting the exposed Powerlink pins into each other’s link plate hole. Once you’ve done that, the easiest way to slide the Powerlink to the secured position is to squeeze it together between your thumb and fore-finger and slide the plates in opposite directions with your fingers.
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It’s been said before…
For the cost of a few dollars the Powerlink beats a long walk home any day. Buy a couple for your Camelbak along with a decent quality mountain bike multi-tool, complete with a chain hook and some good bike lube while you’re at it.
Learn how to remove a SRAM Powerlink here
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